amu darya « a second glance

stalin's last stand

Things have never quite returned to pushing the condemned from the top of minarets, but where Mohamed meets Marx, the Soviet regime of terror favoured by Stalin lives on.

The world is largely ignorant of this mumblistan, the seventh most corrupt country in the world, whose government holds so many thousands of innocents in jail [...]

bridge over the oxus at urgench

Sat on Itamar’s pack, wedged between James’s unwashed thighs and Ramil’s never washed T-shirt and holding up my own seventy litre rucksack to promote the circulation of available air, I cross the Amu Darya at Urgench. We’re on our way to Khiva, where 150 years ago judgement, as an approximation for justice, was passed and [...]

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stalin's last stand

bridge over the oxus at urgench

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